The bottom is almost finished! I’m only stopping because it’s bedtime and I’ve sat in the same spot too long.

Since this is weaving in the round, like a basket with spokes, you need to put in an extra warp so that you have an odd number of warp ends. Here I ran it down through the edge of the woven part, turned it around, and pulled it back up through the cloth so that it would hold the tension and not pull out later under stress.

Those bottom corners are going to be tough. The top corners are already taking a beating because they were already worn before I started. I’ll put some T-pins in them and hope that will help. Next time I’ll be a little more careful when I choose my box.

Where I am starting this morning. You weave a little at the top edge because it is easier to finish a side weaving in the middle than at the top. When it relaxes off the loom and you full the weaving in hot soapy water, any spaces should fill in. This was a new tip for me.

A view of the bottom and sides in process. For the bottom weaving, there aren’t a lot of design choices. Solid or stripes, that’s it, because you need a stable firm structure.

In tapestry, the weft should cover the warp completely. For this reason, you “bubble” in the weft, and then tamp it down densely. Some people use forks or tapestry combs. I think that the best tools are your fingertips.

Just below the brown wool, you can see where I wove the warp that goes around the other two sides. Unlike the wool, it is woven tight and in the same shed as the previous weft.

This is why I can’t weave around the cats. (That’s Miss Lucy.)

Snow coming down now, and the temp has dropped ten degrees. ABOUT TIME.

Almost following the instructions in Sarah Swett’s article in Jan/Feb 08 Handwoven (note to self - buy an awl), I cut slits in my little cardboard box while listening to this podcast, starting at the beginning with Pride and Prejudice. I drew a swoopy kind of design on the box to follow if I feel like it, or not.

This kind of project proves that you don’t have to be rich to take up weaving as a hobby. I started with rags on a wooden frame with nails across the top and bottom. But as you start seeing what others are doing, it does make you want a “real” loom and more equipment and yarn, etc. I bought my first loom as a kit from Harrisville when I came into a little money. Then I traded it up for a 8 shaft Schacht table loom (which I don’t like) and bought a used 4 harness Baby Wolf from a friend’s mother. Now I’d love to get rid of both of those and buy one 8 harness Baby Wolf. But not for a while.

Anyway, I have no excuses for not weaving for a while, with a pin loom ready for weaving, an inkle loom mostly warped up, a floor loom warped with a scarf underway, and now working on this box loom. It’s my problem of getting things going - all ideas, little action.

Moving right along…

It’s helpful to see both the inside and outside of the box here.

Sarah uses a wool warp, but I’ve chosen to use a thick linen (or hemp, it is not labeled). A wool warp will blend into your weft much better, and would be much better if you plan to felt the bag. But I don’t like the stickiness of a wool warp, and wanted to try it this way. It’s like a recipe, I have to change at least one ingredient.

What about warping the sides, you ask? Well, you warp it as you weave the bottom of the box!

Sarah uses sacking needles, which would be perfect for this, with their flat tips and curves. However, I cannot find my sacking needle. This is typical. I can never find the kind of needle I need for these projects until I have given up and bought some more or have finished the project with a less useful needle. Then I put the new needles in a spot where I know I can find them the next time. Then I rearrange the studio. Does this happen to you? Ergh. So I may take up this project again after a trip to the store.